11/12 Frank Pellegrino, Rao's Restaurant

Frank Pellegrino - Rao's  Restaurant  

The Rao family arrived in New York from the southern Italian town of Pollo, near Naples, in the 1880s and settled amid the scattering of shacks and tenement buildings that were then beginning to sprout up in East Harlem. Charles Rao was a child when his mother and father arrived in New York, which meant he grew up with the distinct advantage of speaking English at the time most of the immigrant Italians were still struggling with the language. A bright and resourceful young man, Charles Rao bought a small saloon from the George Ehret Brewery at the corner of 114th Street and Pleasant Avenue in upper Manhattan. It was 1896. He called the place Rao's.

Charles Rao died in 1909 of a heart attack, and his brother Joseph took over and ran the restaurant until his death in 1930. By then Charlie's sons Louis and Vincent Rao had become the operating owners.

Louis and Vincent kept the bar open during Prohibition. One of the neighborhood families, the Caianos, made their own wine in their cellar next door, and it was pumped into Rao's basement through a hose. Rao's sold the wine for a dollar a bottle.

Louis ran the place until his death in 1958; then his brother Vincent took over. It was Vincent who turned Rao's from a local bar- a place neighborhood people used to call "the Hole" because it was (and is) four steps down from the street- into a restaurant where customers began to return even after they moved out of the neighborhood. Vincent loved food. He loved food. He loved to cook. He especially enjoyed grilling steaks and chops and chicken on a charcoal grill he set up on the street right outside the entry. The first Rao's regulars returned primarily for Vincent's steaks and chops.

By 1974, business had become so brisk that help was required in the form of Vincent's wife, Anna Pellegrino Rao, who arrived from their house next door with her pots and recipes. Anna was an unlikely restaurant chef. She was as elegant as her husband was homespun. Her look included a slim figure, a long gold cigarette holder, tightly upswept white-blond hair, white cashmere slacks and turtlenecks, gold sandals, monogrammed tinted glasses, and a single strand of pearls. When longtime regular Woody Allen made Broadway Danny Rose, he based Mia Farrow's look on Anna Rao's distinctive appearance. Anna's deft touch improved all the traditional Italian dishes, and Rao's became a favorite for a small army of steady customers.

Over the years, Rao's has probably survived because its owners have refused to change. They did not expand by filling the floors above the kitchen with additional tables, as they were advised. In the late sixties and early seventies, when East Harlem neighborhood began its decline, Rao's did not move downtown, as was suggested by many of its customers. As a result, Rao's has become a sort of time-capsule restaurant that allows its customers to dip back into an earlier period and experience a neighborhood restaurant as it was.